BRIOCHE IN 60 SECONDS

A Foolproof Pastry Dough-Plus Ten Sweet and Savory Ways to Use it

By

Helen S. Fletcher

From

BON APPETIT MAGAZINE

MARCH 1986

It was many years ago that I walked into my first cooking class. I had chosen one called French Pastries, for even then pastry was a very special interest of mine. The school had a formidable reputation and I was rather nervous. But as soon as I sat down I saw the chef-teacher making some last-minute preparations; he was friendly and outgoing and it was evident to me that there was nothing the least bit intimidating about him.

His name was Andre Gotti, and it was from him that I learned the basics of patisserie-as well as a lot more. Bon Appetit Magazine Article by Helen Fletcher Since that time I have gone on to become a cooking teacher, too, and Andre's warmth and openness, his eagerness to share his knowledge and his patience with any questions have continued to inspire me.

One of the things he taught me was how to make brioche-not just any brioche but the best there is. And that portion of his repertoire has meshed perfectly with what has become my specialty; simplifying the art of pastry making to fit the realities of the limited amount of time today's cook spends in the kitchen. I have created a technique for making this wonderful brioche in the food processor in about 60 seconds-a far cry from the classic method. Although I have altered the basic formula slightly, all of the original taste and texture are intact, and for that I have Andre to thank.

Mastering the basic brioche dough is so easy that I have provided dividends. Brioche is just as versatile as any other yeast dough, and I have included some novel recipes for everything from savory "kisses" filled with ham and Gruyere cheese to brioche pizzas and sweeter dessert versions glazed with lemon, filled with fruit and marbled with raspberry. There is even a large impressive brioche in the classic tete shape that is filled with chicken and artichoke salad-perfect for lunch or a light supper.

You will notice two major differences between my recipe and the classic one: I begin the process by preparing a yeast sponge; and before baking, the "dough" is really more of a batter. Torta Rustica Savory Tart by Truffes Fine FoodsUsing a sponge is admittedly an extra step, but it is one of the reasons for the fine texture of the baked pastry, as well as the heights to which it will rise without a hint of "yeastiness"-that's because such a small amount of yeast is required to get it started.

After the dough has risen, it needs to be stirred down with a spoon, recovered and refrigerated overnight, making it an ideal candidate for your do-ahead file. It may or may not rise again in the refrigerator-but that is inconsequential. Chilling is necessary to firm the butter in the pastry and make it workable. The dough can be refrigerated up to three days before using.

This basic dough can be prepared in the smaller as well as the larger food processors. If you have a large machine, are feeling particularly creative and want to make more dough, you will have much better results making it in successive batches rather than doubling the recipe. (You do not have to clean the work bowl between batches.)

Brioche has not enjoyed as much popularity here as another French favorite, the croissant. I want to change all that, and know that these easy recipes are a delicious introduction to a new chapter of contemporary baking.


Recipes included in this article:


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